Staring at the Moon

Fall Winter 2011 Menswear Show Highlights: Milan and Paris

I know that this post is two weeks past-due, but I really wanted to do a top ten piece  for the latest round of menswear shows that we saw in Milan and Paris over the last month.  Sadly; I could only narrow it down to twelve looks....

I knew that it would be gauche to post a jumble of pictures up in a crude list so I've been on the web the last few days researching slideshow production.  Believe me; plenty of hard work has gone into this post.  I've spent the better part of six hours (intermittently; of course) going through look-books, editing down selections, doing my research on HTML generators, and tagging EVERYTHING to get this post done.

Now; I present you with the fruit of my labor; the top twelve looks that you need to buy (if you have the cash!) or obsess over (if you are the rest of us) for the next five months or so.

Just a side note!!! Click on the pictures to get my commentary on each look!!

 

Till next time,

    -Joeyb

Day Three of Paris Fall Winter 2011 Menswear Shows

Wow, I cannot believe that I am a day behind on posting my daily update.  I've been incredibly busy the last 24 hours and I'm in desperate need of sleep, so; I'm just going to grind this post out and keep it as succinct as possible.

Here are the looks that gave me shivers yesterday:

Balmain Fall-Winter 2011

I'm actually a little surprised by Balmain this season.   It's menswear collections are usually very sparse compared to its sister womenswear collections which are known for their military jackets, sequins, and $26,000 price-tags.  This season, Christophe Decanin actually added a little bit of embellishment to the collection and took it from refined to actually very desirable.  

Balmain Fall-Winter 2011

Balmain Fall-Winter 2011

Obviously I need to go out and buy a rocking scarf because they look so perfect with every look in the collection.

Balmain Fall-Winter 2011

Balmain Fall-Winter 2011

I am in love with this look.  The military jacket, the faded american flag print scarf, the wrap vest, the sash around the waist! So good!  

Balmain Fall-Winter 2011

This look kind of verges on schizophrenic but I like it.  I really want to grab a bunch of raccoon tails and sling them on my hip too...

Givenvhy Fall-Winter 2011

It's kind of strange that of all the looks that Ricardo Tisci sends out for Givenchy this season; my favorite is the most pared down one.  I think that in the case of Givenchy; simpler definitely is better.

Kris Van Assche Fall-Winter 2011

This was definitely the most luxurious show in Paris.  The fabrics and the attention to detail are incredible!

Kris Van Assche Fall-Winter 2011

I wish I could wear this out into the corporate world...

Kris Van Assche Fall-Winter 2011

I think that everyone needs a slouchy car coat in carmel wool-cashmere felt.

Above images can be attributed to Style.com

I have to give a special commendation the Kris for his collection this season.  He doesn't get enough recognition for how talented he is.  The man is, after all, the creative director of Dior Homme and people love to compare him to his predecessor Hedi Slimane.  I actually prefer Mr. Van Assche's work, though.  If I had the money, I would definitely be one of his devotees.

All in all, yesterday's shows in Paris were definitely impressive.  I can't wait to see these looks in an editorial format.

Now I need to get a much needed nap and figure out the edit for my next post in a few hours!

Till then, A bientot!

-Joeyb

My Love Letter to Paris: Day Two of the Fall Winter 2011 Menswear Shows

I'm really lucky to love what I write about.  I'm happy because I get to see the beauty that people put out into the world.  Not everyone can say that they have that opportunity.  The clothes that I saw from Paris today were especially charming and; I really have to say that I feel privileged to write about them.

Here is what I saw today; the best of the best: 

Victor & Rolf Fall-Winter 2011 

The most perfectly tailored white shirt I have ever seen, paired with crisp white shorts (boxers?); it certainly is a look.  To me, this screams the most basic of French elegance.

Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2011 

This look gets my award for the best styling of the day.  I've become so tired of designers shoving black and white goth looks down our throats over the last two seasons, but; this one feels fresh.  I'm sort of obsessed with the elbow length suede gloves and the slouchy white gilet.  

Alexis Mabille Fall-Winter 2011

In my opinion this collection could have used a little bit of editing but, there were some very interesting pieces.  This look was so well put together; sort of like a 18th century French noble meets a modern day graffiti artist.

Alexis Mabille Fall-Winter 2011 

What!? Sequined, shiny, airy, plaid shirts!?  Only in Paris will you find something as surreal as this...

Alexis Mabille Fall-Winter 2011 

And embroidered tulle T-Shirts!?  Mr. Mabille and I definitely live in the same world where it's okay to wear this.

Dries Van Noten Fall-Winter 2011

Even though the shoulders on this coat are too large (lets face it, slim silhouettes are in for the time being); I love the indigo treatment on the fabric and the way that the collar kind of crawls around the models neck.  It always takes me a while to register how much I admire Dries' clothes.  His taste is way more sophisticated than mine and I always need to break down his outfits to grasp how beautiful his clothes really are.

Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2011 

I always aspire to emulate Louis Vuitton because Marc Jacobs and Paul Helbers continually show the most beautiful menswear in Paris.  This time I just needed to take a closer look to realize that.  I'm not going to post a description of every look because the clothes really just speak for themselves.

Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2011

Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2011

Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2011

Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2011

Above images can be attributed to Style.com

Only Louis Vuitton can make me as sentimental as I am right now.  I mean, Louis Vuitton is Paris, it represents everything that I stand for as a member of the fashion community.

It's collections like the ones that were shown today that stand testament to the validity of fashion.  This is why I write about it; this is why clothes are important.  There are still designers in Paris that are artists, that are dreamers, and businessmen.  There are people who make their livings producing these clothes; craftsmen and women who have skills that can only be passed on by others before them.  Whether it is dying, or embroidery, or leatherwork; these clothes are made for people to decorate themselves with and to live their lives in.  At the end of the day it's not about fast fashion, or style, or consumers; its about the people making their clothes and the fact that we should celebrate them.

Lots of love and peace till tomorrow,

-Joeyb

Big Shocker: Paris Rocks My Socks

I've been so happy with all the youthful, exuberant clothes that were shown in Milan over the last couple days.  It kind of set a big bar for Paris to match on it's first day of fashion week.  Sure there were only like three shows; but I did find some workable pieces that I'm really excited about.

I thought that Paris was going to be pretentious, all black and leather like it has been for the last few seasons; but I was pleasantly suprised to find quirky, special, beautifully crafted clothes that I can share.

Mr. by Roland Mouret Fall-Winter 2011 

Roland Mouret is known for the cocktail dresses that he puts onto celebrities.  He sort of has a signature sculptural look that he usually achieves using inverted pleats on heavy fabrics.  I was surprised to see them on his pants this time.  I'm not really a fan of khakis; but I can definitely work with these.  

Mugler Fall-Winter 2011

The big talk of the last 24 hours has been the resurgence of the Mugler line.  Stylist Nicola Formichetti is the new creative director of the house and has garnered a lot of attention ever since he put Lady Gaga in meat dress a while back.  Although a lot of the clothes in his collection were unexpectedly conservative, this sherbet-colored vinyl jacket did catch my attention.  I would never ever be able to pull it off but, it would look nice hanging in my closet!

Mugler Fall Winter 2011

Above images can be attributed to Style.com

Beautiful!  There isn't really much going on in terms of clothing but, sometimes you just need to send beauty out into the world.  I want to get a framed image of this and hang it up on my wall!

Sure I love Milan for all of its fun, luxurious clothes but, the designers in Paris always make the most honest, heartfelt collections every season.  It's like two completely different ends of a spectrum.  That being said, I really can't wait to see what day two of Paris' fashion week brings!

Shine on,

-Joeyb

Day Four of Fall Winter 2011 Menswear: Milan

I hate to be that person that says this, but; I am heavily disappointed with the caliber of clothes that were presented today in Milan.  Honestly, I was worried that I was even going to have enough options to constitute this blog post.  Luckily, there are still wonderful designers out there like Neil Barrett and Allesandro Sartori that can make exciting clothes.  

So here's what got my heart pumping again today:

Z Zenga Fall-Winter 2011 

Z Zenga tends to surprise me every season.  I tend to associate it with its flagship brand Ermenegildo Zenga, which is much more conservative.  However, for the last year and a half, I've actually found myself anticipating this show.  Enough about what I think; lets look at the clothes!

When I normally see shoulder-pads on men, I tend to cringe.  I'm usually more attracted to slim, flashy silhouettes, but this look is really endearing.  I don't know if it's the color, the illustrious wool, or the way the lines of the jacket naturally tighten the waist; but I'm really drawn in.

Z Zenga Fall-Winter 2011

The fabric research that Mr. Sartori employed this season was incredible.  He actually digitally bonded the leather that he used to make his jackets to cashmere flannel so it would have the stiff, planar effect that you can see above on this silver masterpiece.  I think that these jackets may be the item of the season.

Giorgio Armani Fall Winter 2011 

To be honest, looks 1-42 and looks 44-66 of Mr. Armani's show today made me want to pull my hair out.  I normally look forward to viewing his menswear collection, but; this season's show was downright drab.  #43 was the only look of the show that elicited any reaction from me.  I'm really intrigued by how seamless the color blocking on the sweater works.  I wish that there were more cutting edge garments like this in the show.

Neil Barrett Fall Winter 2011

Oh Mr. Barrett; I feel like you design your collections just for me.  Every season he makes clothes that perfectly match what I want.  When I saw the first look of the collection I was giddy like a five year old.  I have yet to see anyone send out a white peacoat before and that gets my heart pumping.  I also love the way it just sort of seems to hug the model and how you can't tell whether it is wool or leather.  The neoprene pants are a must have as well!

Neil Barrett Fall-Winter 2011

The above images can be attributed to Style.com

Oh my gosh the coat; the coat!  Incredible!  The degrade shirt is so basic and edgy at the same time and the shiny neoprene pants are incredible.  Neil Barrett just gets how to make stylish, exciting clothes. 

If you want to view Milan's menswear offerings as well as tomorrow's shows in Paris, please go visit Style.com! 

Even though the pickings were slim today in Milan, I've suddenly gotten really excited about the clothes I just reviewed.  I hope that tomorrows shows in Paris are just as invigorating as Milan!

Till tomorrow,

-Joeyb